Have you ever wondered how a skincare product is made? Whether natural or synthetic, cosmetic formulators work with 15 main ingredient categories.

Many natural ingredients sound very 'chemical' but are plant-derived botanical extracts, So don't be put off by complex-sounding ingredients, and learn with us how to spot plant-based skincare ingredients genuinely.

In this article, you will learn:

• what are the components of a skincare product
• how to identify the main natural ingredients by category
• list of many plant-based ingredients widely used in natural skincare

The Basics - Components of a Skincare Product

In a nutshell, there are 15 main categories under which ingredients used in cosmetic formulations fall.

1. ACTIVES

Actives are compounds that interact and communicate directly with the skin cells; they are the most potent ingredients that can penetrate the dermis and stimulate the skin to repair, renew, increase collagen production, and hydrate, nourish and protect itself.

Some examples of mainly plant-based or derived ingredients:

2. ANTIOXIDANTS

Antioxidants help protect the skin’s surface from oxidative damage caused by free radicals, UVA/UVB, pollution and lifestyle (poor diet, smoking, no sunscreen...). Antioxidants not only limit the production of free radicals but can neutralize them when they come into contact with your skin.

Some examples: Aminoacids (Cysteine...) , Carotenoids (Beta Carotene...) Flavonoids (Epigallocatechine gallate from Green Tea ...), Peptides, Enzymes (Peroxidases..), Phenols (Resveratrol...), Ferulic acid, Vitamin C, E...

3. EMOLLIENTS

Emollients can only penetrate the upper layer of the skin, the Epidermis; they are lipids that soften rough skin and nourish dry skin by preventing water loss. Natural emollients (plant oils) are also packed with good anti-inflammatory fatty acids and vitamins, while synthetic emollients have the only skin barrier function.

Some examples: Plant oils like Rosehip oil (ex Rosa canina seed oil), Cacay oil, (NOT essential oils, but cold pressed oils), Ceramides, Squalane. Mineral oil is actually a synthetic emollient.

4. EMULSIFIERS

As oil and water don't mix, emulsifiers or binding agents make products like moisturizers. Water and lipid ingredients are mixed and kept stable as an emulsion, preventing the separation of components. Emulsifiers are also essential for modifying the texture of a skincare product.

Some examples: Sorbitan Olivate, Cetearyl Olivate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Glucoside, Glyceryl Stearate, Lecithin …

5. EXFOLIANTS

Exfoliants help to remove dead skin cells that otherwise will prevent the complete absorption of any skincare product and make the skin rough, uneven, and dull.

There are physical or chemical exfoliants; avoid irregular physical exfoliants (avoid rough sugar granules and opt for spherical jojoba beads) and keep chemical options (AHA's...) at the skin level your skin can tolerate as a weekly routine.

Some examples: physical: jojoba beads, almond meal grounded, salt… chemical (AHA’s, BHA’s, PHA’s, Papain, Salicylic acid, Bromelain, Papain)

6. FRAGRANCES

Fragrances, synthetic or natural, impart a pleasant aroma and mask some ingredients' inherent smell. Some essential oils can interact at a cellular level and be absorbed by the dermis.

Some examples: Essential oils (ex. Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) oil) , absolutes, hydrosols (Linalool, Citronellol, Limonene, Geraniol … indicate that the fragrance is natural in the EU - fragrance is usually synthetic and no more details are needed)

7. HUMECTANTS / MOISTURIZERS

Humectants retain and deliver moisture, essential for the skin to function correctly; moisturizers help create a protective barrier to prevent water loss or transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

Some examples: Amino acids (Glycine...), proteins and peptides (Collagen, Elastic, silk proteins...), Hyaluronic acid, Sodium hyaluronate, Glycerin, Sorbitrol, Honey, Trehalose, Allantoin, Ectoin, Urea

8. OCCLUSIVES

Occlusives form a protective coating on the surface of your skin to reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Occlusives are also important as they prevent contact with irritants and allergens, especially for people with eczema and dermatitis.

Some examples: Butters (ex. Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter) , Waxes, Coconut oil (Synthetic agents are Silicones, Mineral Oil, Petrolatum...)

9. COLORANTS

Colourants are dyes, pigments, natural botanical extracts, and plant powders that can impart colour to a skincare product. They can be mineral-based, synthetic or plant-based. Natural colourants are usually listed with the name of the plant they are extracted from. In EU / Asia synthetic pigments are listed with the prefix CI and 5 numbers, in the US ... lake.

Some examples: Organic pigments (plant extracts ex Spirulina Platensis Powder), Inorganic pigments (iron oxides)

10. PRESERVATIVES

Preservatives are essential with every formulation containing water. They prevent microbial growth and contamination during formulation, shipment, storage or consumer use. There are many plant-based preservatives available for food and topical use.

Some examples: Sodium levulinate, Sodium anisate, Sorbic acid, Citric acid, Tocopherol, Propanediol , Ethylhexylglycerin, Lactobacillus Ferment